Are you done sitting on the beach watching others enjoy the fun of surfing? Great! It is time for you to get up and learn how to surf. Learning to surf can be a fun and challenging experience. There is more to it then just getting on a surfboard in the ocean and learning to stand up on a wave. We want to get you as ready as you can possibly be. This simple and useful guide will help put you in a position to catch some waves of your own in no time.
Surfing Introduction
Surfing has been around for hundreds of years. It is basically one of the most popular sports in the world. Like any other sport surfing is going to be difficult at first. With some practice and patience you will be standing on a beginners wave in no time at all. One of the most important things to remember is that surfing will take several years to master. You will be able to learn in a shorter time, but to be a true surfing expert will take time and practice.
Understanding the Ocean
Many of us don’t respect the ocean and its awesome power the way we should. This can be said even more often when it comes to people who don’t live around the water. The ocean is a powerful force of Mother Nature. Before you even get in the water you should understand what you are dealing with. With surfing you will be dealing with waves and currents. It is important that you understand certain terminology. Certain waves have certain pattern breaks. You won’t want to surf them all, especially if you are a beginner.
Point Breaks
This type of break is usually the most ideal for surfers. A point break has the potential to create a perfect wave. Point breaks will usually provide a wave that has a great curl and can be ridden for a long period of time.
Reef Breaks
The name says it all. Reef breaks are waves that break over rock and choral shelves. These types of waves are often the most spectacular to see and ride. They are probably the most dangerous as well. Since only a few feet of water can separate you from you reef these types of waves are usually only ridden by professionals. Think Bonzai Pipeline in Hawaii.
Beach Breaks
Simply put, these are waves that break over a sand bottom. They can break close to shore or far from shore. These are the best types of waves for beginners since you don’t have to deal with shallow rock and choral.
Lets take a look at some currents now…
There are two main types of currents a surfer will face when they head out to the water: Longshore currents and rip currents.
Longshore Currents
A longshore current moves up and down the beach and is parallel to the shore. While this type of current can be tough to get past, they are usually not very dangerous unless you are surfing near a pier or boat ramp. The current may push you over into one of these structures if you are not careful.
Rip Currents
This current is by far the most dangerous current; not just for surfers, but for swimmers and other beachgoers as well. A rip current is they type of current that will pull you out to sea if you are not careful. Battling against a powerful rip current is nearly impossible so be careful. If you get stuck in a rip current your best chance is the fight against it diagonally. This will help pull you out of the current.